LOUISVILLE, Ky. (WHAS11) -- After a day away from the trail visiting the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes in Lourdes, France, Father David Sanchez returned to the trail with a 38-kilometer trek from Aire-sur-l’Adour to Arzacq-Arraziguet, France on August 1.
EDITOR'S NOTE: Excerpts have been pulled directly from Sanchez's blog at wherespadre.org
“It was the first morning that I had to use my night lights on my forehead. Mornings are getting darker, coming out from town was hard because of the hill. After the hill, I entered a great park with a lake. It was so calm that I can hear the fish jumping in the water.
“Passing the park, I hit to a tunnel, where I did not see my marker. I continue for 500 meters and hit a duck farm. There were all ducklings. Beautiful golden color. I proceed on the road for one km, and the “toros” where waiting for me. This area of France is passionate about bulls. It is not only Spain. Every village has a bull arena.
“I walked for four hours until arrived to Miramont-Sensacq. I immediately look for a bakery for breakfast. The first one was so charming. I said : bonjour, but it was empty. After couple minutes a wonderful old lady came out. I asked if she had coffee, but she said no. I said thank you, and continue. At the end of town there was a more modern bakery with everything. I bought a chocolatinne, expresó, bread, and an orange for lunch. I had my cured salami. I sat for fifteen minutes and ate my chocolatinne, and drank my coffee. There was a short cut from this village to the next. I read my map, and went by the short way.
“The next town was Pimbo. It is a shining little village. When I arrived a young man was cleaning street, mowing the grass, cleaning everything to perfection. There is a nice restaurant, coffee house with everything here. In the middle of the plaza, there were two picnic tables for the Pelerins. I ate my lunch here: bread , salami, orange , and two pellegrino waters that I bought at the cafe. The tree canopy was well trim and human designed.
“The church entrance arch was unique. It has three small figures at the top. A couple hugging, a couple looking forward, and a couple back to back. I called it: the marriage! Ha!ha!
“I went back to the restaurant, and asked the chef the meaning of the figures, but he didn’t know. He started asking three other residents, but no one new the meaning. One of them called the historian of the village to discovered that they were three of the seven capital sins: lust, glutton, and wrath. Any way, there was something about marriage there!”
The next morning, Sanchez set out for Arthez-de-Bearn, France, a small village with less than 2,000 inhabitants. While on the trail, Sanchez discovered that he has become a celebrity on the Way of St. James.
“It was dark this morning. I put my night lights on my forehead, and hit to Arthez. I passed my first turn. It was not the street, but a hidden small alley. It took me to a beautiful lake. The moon shone on it that I could see the fish jumping in the water. The path took all around the lake. Then I started ascending to the top of a hill in the wood. An hour later I was out of the woods, and the sun was up. I put my light in the front pocket of my backpack, and continue. There was a field with a new crop. I could not determined what has been planted, but the sprinklers were on. It look like a green ocean in front of me.
“I was expecting a easy trail today, but it was not there were hill 80 degrees up. I just applied my turbo speed. I finished 30 km in 5 hours. Now that my feet are back to normal the walls are more fun.
“The first small town I passed by was Louvigny. I think it is Louisville in French, haha! They had a beautiful community center and church. There was a young women cleaning the flower baskets from the Mairie office.
“A Walker passed me by this point, I saw him leaving a Gitè 30 minutes from the village I had started. He looked a little disturbed. He was walking holding hands like in prayer, and will speak to himself. A young German man came out from another gitè, two km forward. He was a fast walker. He passed us both. At one point the man introduced himself as Manuel, I told my name, and he said: are you the one that walked more that 50 km in one day? Gossip run on the way! I asked how did he know. He told me that everyone was talking about me. I just walked from Decazeville to Cajarc in one day, and please don’t asked how. Cecile is my witness, she was lost all morning, and was coming behind me from Figeac.
“The man started walking very fast and disappeared. I am more in peace walking by myself. I like to take time to pray in solitude, think about the church, my parishioners, my issues, and the world.
“In between, Uzan and Pomps, France there was a large corn field. It was so peaceful. When from the middle of nowhere the man jumped in front of me. OMG, I gave the biggest jump of my life, and said couple good words. He did not apologize of all. He just said that he was meditating in the corn field, and when we arrive to the next village he will offer me the best cup of tea that I would have. He said: it was high tea. Really? I think he was high, high! Now that I remember, I saw him three days ago sitting under a tree in John meditation position, but I am kind of custom to see this on the way.
“It was very kind today passing by a village, where a resident put a tent, and offered coffee, tea and cake to the pelerins. It was my breakfast. The cake was corn cake with chocolate. It was divine.
“Arriving to Arthez, I could see a large chemical plant in The Valley, miles away. I look in my google map. It is the city of Lacq. It goes for kms, and take the whole valley.
“I have a nice view from my bed tonight, the steeple of the Church. Which remind me why I am here!
“I went to the local pub to have a flavor of this village. I can tell you everyone is so happy. I am sure everyone is related. They kiss each other in every cheek, very normal in France.”
Friday’s trek from Arthez-de-Bearn to Navarrenx, France was brightened by encounters with locals and the realization that Sanchez’s destination was closer to Spain than he thought.
“There is not a better smell in France that the French mint in the fields. I like to put some leaves in my mouth late in the walk. It is refreshing!
“Leaving Arthez de Béarn was lovely. The path was quiet and serine. Arriving to Argagnon gave me a pick of the Pyrénées in the distance, and the Gave the the Pau river was clear blue.
“Passing Maslacq, I entered a massive corn field. It was like a maze with not end. There was a fresh flowers smell in the air. A sunflower field covered the last kilometer. Walkers has been making faces on the flowers. They made me laugh with their creativity. I started listening a strong current of water for 300 meters. I thought that a water splinter has broken, when the river itself revealed to me. The currents where strong. I passed an abandoned house. I dreamed to repair it!
“Passing the house was the test of the day, a big hill in rocks. I took it as normal, and kept going to discovered that there were 5 more hills after that.
“I was thirsty. It has been three hours, and I like to drink after 4 hours walk. You know I like to have coffee and a chocolatinne by the third hour. At 9:30am, I arrived to the old abbey of Sauvelade, after running down the hill for one kilometer. The abbey has been abandoned. The chapel was beautiful. 300 meters pass the abbey was a restaurant, but the chef said that he would not serve coffee. I just kept walking up the hill, and more up the hill.
“I stopped after the farms for lunch in a high point. A young man was running up the hill by me and stopped. I told him: common keep going. He laughed and walked. He came back, and o I said to him: keep running down, which he did. I did not know how deep this hill was until I run it down with my backpack. In the middle of the hill there was a spring of fresh water. An old man was filling several gallons. I wait for him to finish. The water was cold and refreshing. I drank a bottle on the spot, and refilled it.
“Now I entered the village of Méritein, a lovely place to live. The houses are more modern here. There are 2.4 km now to Navarrenx. It is a fortified village with a wall. Therefore, it is very hot here. The wall covered the city, and the breeze that comes from the river Gave d’Oloron. France is very rich in water resources. Every path that I have walked has fresh water springs, and they are very strong.
“Arriving to Navarrenx, I stopped at the first restaurant for a drink. When I went to pay, they did not speak French, but Basque. What? I though it was in Spain. But here in southern France border with Spain, they consider themselves Pays Basque too. It was very natural in me. I just gave the waitress the right amount of money, like I knew the language. Mmmmm.”
On Saturday, August 4, Sanchez was nearing the end of the French chapter of his journey. But before he could turn the page on France he needed to cross the Pyrenees Mountains, a 305-mile-long mountain range separating Spain from France that reaches an elevation of 11,168 feet.
“It was graduation day. The test of the Le Puy Way was in front of me. Today was the last day of the French tour for me. There was in-front of me, the tallest test of the Pyrenees with all the possible challenges in front of me. I just said, after 24 days, it is nothing. I took it as a champion, and forgive my humility. I was light speed! The experience was amazing! Then of course, if you go up, you must come down! A dog came from no where and starting barking to me. It was frightening, but I just kept walking.
“I arrived to an old church, the chapel of St. Nicolas at Harambeltz. There was water there.
“Arriving to Ostabat was impressive. The path took me to an old walk. It was full of Sheep. The temperature was so high that there were all looking for the coldest place. I have the opportunity to touch them. The lower part of the village was covered of manure. The first gite on the road did not look like a gite, but a barn for cows. I follow the path and took the to uptown. There were so many pelerins buying groceries for tomorrow. I asked the lady at the grocery store for a place to stay, and she sent me next to the church. The gite was full, but there was a bed for me. The roommates told me that I had to call the restaurant by 5pm , if I wanted to eat. Mercedes offered to call the restaurant.
“At 7pm we went to the restaurant and had a great soup. It tasted like Puerto Rico. After the soup we had pasta with some meet, that tasted like Puerto Rico. What is happening here? I think I am Basque.
“After dinner I went to the other restaurant to have a drink with Cecile and Clement. It was interesting. They eat the same. The family at this restaurant was so nice: Daniel, Marianela, and grandma. I told them that I was from Puerto Rico, when Daniel said: everyone from this village moved to Puerto Rico.
“This is a precious beautiful region of France. It is forgotten in time. There are few residents and they have mass every month and a half. One priest, nine parishes. The owner of the gite told me that the next time I pass by I should tell them that the church should be opened for mass. That was sweet!”
Sanchez entered Spain on Tuesday, August 7, after 26 days of hiking. Along the way, the relentless path offered him clarity, lessons and friendships that will sustain him through the remaining miles to the Atlantic Ocean.
“It was very dark this morning. It was good, because I cannot see the challenges in front of me. The ascension from Honto is known to be the Spaniard test to the mountains. After 26 days walking in all kind of terrain in France, I was prepared.
“Two Italians left the gite 5 minutes before me, I found them later arguing what path to take , when the road divided. I just let them know that I was going to the left, and kept walking. What if it was not, just start again! No judge yourself for the mistakes in life, there are just lessons. A kilometer up, I found myself in the same situation, left of right? I was so secured that I went back to the left. I kept going. I could not see the mountains.
“Three kilometers later, a herd of cows was laid down in the middle of path. In Aubrac, France, I went up the hill around them. Today, I walked direct through them. Wow! That was so cool.
“The sun started rising slowly. There were three young men sleeping by the road on their sleeping bags. I am sure there were like Kings.
“As I was ascending the Pyrenees, five small trucks were going up very fast. Each one of them has a dog in the back. Later I discovered, they were the shepherds. It was a majestic show of shepherds and flocks running on the hills from all the directions over my head. On one point the sheep were so close to me. See pictures on Instagram: wherespadre.
“And the light of God came, my eyes were in wonder to see the Pyrenees all its splendor. I had to cross them in ascending position. There was a point that I thought that my backpack gain 30 more pounds. I even felt that my pants where falling down. I stopped for a minute. I never took my backpack down. I just enjoyed the moment. A moment! It was to stay there for ever. Today in the feast of the Transfiguration in Spain. But as Jesús said to Peter, we need to go down, forget the three tents.
“There were marks of WWII on the mountains. There were bunkers, and memorials. I knew I was in Spain, when I saw the Navarra’s land mark. Then, there are beautiful woods on the Spain side.
“Now, there was a sense of holiness up there. I was walking alone. The strong winds hit me from the south. I loved it! It was like to be Moses and receiving the Ten Commandments. A great time for me to reflect on them. It was so powerful. God bless our Holy Father Francis, as he started revising the position of the Church on Death Penalty.
“By crossing the Pyrenees, I only regret that it only took me 5 hours to cross over them. It should be longer.
“Many people has died up there. Families and friends have put memorial. I pray on one of them, a young man from Brazil. The anniversary of his death was 3 days, five years ago.
“Reaching the height point of the mountains is the beginning to start descending, but not as you ascend. It is a brutal descending. My both knees tested the pain. I just run down, best strategy against the pain.
“The first gite communal in Spain is like a five stars hotel for Pelerins. When I arrived, it still closed. I sat on a bench, and eat my breakfast. An hour later there were opened. The stamped my credential, gave me a bed number, and a dinner ticket.
“Cecile arrived, and called me at that time, and Clement was arriving by the back door. We three celebrated the achievement, and we went lunch together. It was the last good bye. Cecile will go to the Alpes to walk with her boyfriend, and Clement was going back to Geneva.
“Now, the plan is easy 33 more days of adventure to Compostela. I would take a break in between. I am walking to fast. Please remember the cause of this peregrination: St. Joseph Steeples.
“I was thinking today, if all the people that follow me on the blog invite 10 friends home for coffe, tea, and beer. Please do not forget Fomage!!! And tell our need to save the Steeples to their friends. Maybe they can help us too.
“I want to thanks all of you who write to me on the blog. I love to hear from you. I always respond. Please do not stop doing so. My respond is short, but from my heart.”
You can see select excerpts from Father Sanchez’s blog every week right here on WHAS11.com.
Sanchez’s full blog and additional photographs can be found at wherespadre.org.
