LOUISVILLE, Ky. (WHAS11) – After crossing the Pyrenees Mountains into Spain last week, Father David Sanchez has continued to make fast progress on the Camino de Santiago, covering ground from the French-Spanish border to the small village of Belorado, Spain between August 7 and August 14.
At the beginning of his first week in Spain, Sanchez encountered an equipment failure that forced him to walk with a partner--a situation he accepted reluctantly, but one which ultimately paid off in more ways than one.
EDITOR’S NOTE: Excerpts have been taken directly from Sanchez’s blog at wherespadre.org.
“To walk in the darkness can bring light to your life. It may be difficult, but at the end you will find yourself in a great spot in life.
“This morning my light nights started to fail. I needed to charge them. I was a little concerned, because it was very dark. Miguel, from Barcelona, was leaving at the same time. He was a little disoriented, but he has new lights. I have never walked with some one, but today it was very important to have a partnership. I was a little concerned, I am not a fast walker, but good with with direction. I started fast, and Miguel followed me for three kilometers 20 meters behind.
“Arriving to Burguete, I stopped at the ATM machine for cash. Miguel arrived after me, and we talk about where was a place for breakfast or a bakery. No in Spain. In France, the bakeries will open at 6am for the walkers.
“From there we walk together and we chatted about our careers. The only place opened was Cafe Juan in Viscarret. Paquita, the attendant, had cooked a great Tortilla Española without onion. She just looked like my mom, but she was a cold lady. Miguel and me sat outside to eat, and other pelegrinos arrived after us. There was a long ascension in Linzoain. I just did it without difficulties. Miguel could not keep with me. After it there was a long descending. I run it as normal. I forgot to tell Miguel that I run going down the hill. I felt so bad. I waited for him at the bottom of the hill, and I explained to him. He did not have a problem with that. he understood that everyone has a walking style in the Camino.”
On Wednesday Sanchez arrived in the city of Pamplona, famous for the annual Running of the Bulls, before continuing on to the small village of Cizur Menor, home to not one, but two, 12th century churches.
“I entered Pamplona by the eastern suburbs. Pamplona is a very developed city. All the buildings are average 10 stories high. The first floors are all businesses. You want to bring people to live in downtown Louisville, we need to learn from Pamplona.
“El Camino take you through the old city wall. It is just like St. Felipe del Morro in Puerto Rico. I would say the same architect. It was just a copy. I would have to investigate which one is older.
“The people in Pamplona dress very well to go to work. It was like a fashion show going through the streets. In all sense!
“I only struggled with their indifference. I said good morning in Spanish to every person I encountered. Only a hand account answered back. Therefore, I started having fun with it. If they did not answered, and they were orders, I would said: Gracias jovenes! Thank you young people! If they were younger, I just would repeat two more times good morning, good morning.
“I leave the city by the University of Navarra, and started the ascension to Cizur Menor a little village with two beautiful churches of the XII Century. Because there are two, you can imaging the fights for the power. I had to deal with it in the afternoon. Where to go for mass? Any way, I celebrated the mass for 20 pelegrinos at the Order of Malta XII Century Church.
“I arrived to Cizur Manor by 10am. The shelter was not opened, but Maribel, the owner opened it for me. A very sweet women. She talked to me for 2 hours. She has a great jovial personality that you would stay talking with her the whole day. She stopped talking, because she must open the shelter.
“It started raining tonight. We had a hail storm, and it was very cold water. Tomorrow I have to cross El Alto del Perdon (The Hill of Forgiveness). The name says it all!”
As he shuffled between the many small villages that dot the trail in France, Sanchez made an effort to interact with the local inhabitants in order to more fully experience his surroundings--something he has continued to do in Spain as he takes refuge from the challenges of the trail each evening.
“When you stay in small villages during El Camino, you know that you will have a better flavor of the peoples’ hearts. Yesterday I stayed at a small village, and today I passed Puente de la Reina to stay in Cirauqui. Wow! It is a cute village. As you approach it, you know that it is a very special village. When Miriam, Pedro, and me arrived in company of another pelegrino, we said from the distance, in one voice: it is a beautiful place!
“But this morning was different. It was raining all night at Cizur Maior. When I opened the door of my room, it looked like a tornado was passing through. The temperature dropped 20 degrees. It was cold. I put on my warm sport jacket, and the rain top. The sky was cloudy, and strong winds were coming from all directions. I just put myself in God’s hands. When I arrived to the village of Zariquiegui, three women were leaving their shelters 50 meters in front of me. From there on, was the beginning of Altos del Perdon. According to locals the hardest ascending point. It was very easy for me, after surely training 26 days in France. Reaching the highest point was the famous monument of the pelegrinos. The winds were so strong that I thought that I would fly to Santiago without walking. I ascended running it to Uterga. It was time for breakfast. Ana was putting her business signs out. I asked her: is the coffee ready? She said: coffee and more. She has a great personality. Her daughter Ana S. was behind the counter on the phone. I asked for a cup of coffee, and bread with tomato spread and ham. It was so yum! Ana S. had great music going on. We talked about their trip to the USA west coast coming on.
“From there, I walk 2.5 km to go back to El Camino in the town of Obanos were St. Felicity suffered her martyrdom, and St. William was converted. By now I was in Puente de la Reina. There I found Pedro drinking a beer outside a bar. We bought some tomatoes, mushrooms, cheese, and bread for lunch. I visited the church, where I found a great statue of St. Sebastián.
“Now, I must be honest. After this town there was a very hard hill to hike. Pedro and me hiked it at high speed.
“We finished it thirsty, and stopped at Mañeru, another cute village. The town workers were outside the bar having some beers. We had a great joyful conversation there. A city worker without know me brought me a drink. A young women passed walking her dog and join us. The dog was a Portugal water dog. It was chocolate color. Smartest could not be! Until he discover the sausages in my backpack. He did all kind of tricks to win a pice it.
“Miriam and another Pelegrino joined us there to walk to Cirauqui. When we arrived to town, the town was desolated. When we did the turn by the church, there was a child playing soccer by himself. We arrived to the shelter and Serena, an Italian woman, received us with a big smile. It is a lovely place.”
On Friday, Sanchez departed Cirauqui and passed through the villages of Lorca, Villatuerta, Estella, Irache and Azqueta before arriving in Villamayor, where he passed the evening with a town elder known as Segundo.
“I passed Azqueta, and started the ascending to Villamayor by noon. A young athletic man from Palencia passed me fast, and sat at the bus stop. I stoped a the tiny little market for a drink, but no one was in it. I scream: “se llevan todo!” ( hurry, they are taking everything!). A women running down the stairs from the second build showed up with a big smile. I paid the drink, and sat down with the young man that was preparing a cigarette. The young people don’t buy cigarettes in France or Spain. They rolled them themselves, because it is cheaper. We talk for several minutes. When a man approached me to asked me if he has seen 5 bikers on el Camino. They arrived 10 minutes later.
“I proceed to the shelter, but it was closed till 2pm. I just followed the instructions on the wall. There were 10 more backpacks before mine, but only one woman was there. We chatted for a while, but I felt asleep. More people started arriving. They opened the shelter on time. It is run by a group of volunteers of a Christian sect. They spoke many languages. The place was clean, they had good food, and it was cheap. After dinner, they invited all to “Jesús Meditation.”
“Dinner was delicious and the company was great. We introduced each other. We shared stories, and talk about life. How beautiful is when parents love their children! How scary can be when they need to fly for themselves! At the end parents need to trust God!!!Everything will be simply ok!
“Segundo arrived to the shelter earlier. He is a local in his 80’s. He loves to talk with the pelegrinos. What a a beautiful human being. What great stories he told us about the village, his family, his life. Pedro, Miriam, and me heard his stories for hours. He went home, and promised us that he would be back after dinner. We were ready for his second round. He was late, and we decided to go to the market, when he turned on the street before us. We did not recognized him. He was a new Segundo. He was well dressed, shaved, wearing new shoes. Pedro started picking on him, and he would respond with a great humor. I just loved it. It has been one of the highest point of the trip. We laughed, we cried, we celebrated life with him. He was younger again. His face was full of joy. He talked about everything that make a human being great. Love to his roots, love to his family, love to his country. We tested him in every matter. He was a doctor in everyone of them. He is the heart of the village. He never believed that I was a priest, but a loved his humor in responding why I was not a priest. He made me feel so thankful of my life. Real life…
“I could not abandoned Segundo to go to “Jesús Meditation,” when Jesús just had arrived. I had to go to bed by 9:30pm. It was hard to leave. Pedro and Miriam stayed with him. I could hear them from my bed.”
Down the trail the next day in Viana and Logrono, Sanchez once again found himself welcomed into the community as if he were a long-lost family member.
“As soon as I arrived to Viana, I knew that it was a vibrant joyful city. I arrived during lunch time 1pm to 3:30. The streets were full of people, and every table at restaurants and bars were full to capacity. I had to walk by the walls to reach my shelter. There were people of all ages. Every one was so happy that they made you part of the family immediately. A group of young people invited me to their bar, and literally it was like I was part of the family. They invited me for dinner too. I could not say , no. It was an amazing experience of welcoming the stranger in our mist. I never was a stranger!
“The Church was full for mass. The choir was out of tone, but we all sang, and we could not hear the difference. I read the Gospel, and the parish priest preached.
“Logroño was an amazing city. City of paseos and parks. We had to walk all of them. Hundreds of people were walking, running, and biking. I greeted each one of them, and 99%, greeted me back, wow! I was in Spain!!! It was the first time I saw the Spaniard flag. As you know there is this crazy movement in northern Spain about independence in Basque Country and Cataluña. It is all guided by financial powers. If we divided them, we may conquer them!
“Pedro and me walked to Navarrete. It was a hot hot hot walk. The town was taking the siesta. We were accommodated in our shelter, and after showering, we took a long nap too.
“Around 6:30, we walked to the center of the village. When all the seniors over 90 started filling the plaza. They all have a housekeeper with them. Oh yeah, I had a great time talking to them. Luisa and Bernardo, were so beautiful. She would talk more. He was a former “sastre “ in town. He would look at his watch constantly. Luisa was like my grandma. I asked them about what kind of music they would like to hear. I turned my cell with Lola Flores music, and Luisa sang along. Bernardo was very uncomfortable , but he waved his hands with the music. I asked Luisa if she would like an olives plates. She said: yes! I run to the bar, and when I said it was for Luisa, they did not charged me. She ate all of them. Bernardo did not touched them. Who will change a bended old tree at 95?
“When they went home, we ordered our dinner: paella and ribs. Everything was delicious. Markis and his wife joined us. They spoke Italian, but we talked for three hours like we knew each other for life.”
After a rude awakening Tuesday, Sanchez rounded out his fifth week on the trail with a walk from Logrono to Belorado, entering into the Castilla y León region of northwestern Spain.
“We were woke up by the bikers style and fashion insecurity. It was 5am when the first biker woke up to decide what he was going to wear today. By 7am, he was not ready yet. It was a 2 hours torture.
“Pedro was so made that he flashed him with his cellphone several times. Pedro left the abbey, and wait for me on the road.
“I always prepare my backpack before going to bed. I only have to put my socks and go.
“In Grañon a very young man from the village was making good money with his food truck. We passed it, because the line was long. Then we saw a bakery sign. No one was there. I looked through the door, and the old baker invited me to enter. He had the more traditional beautiful pastries of the village. He was so hospitable to us. His son was not so friendly like him. The son closed abruptly the door that separated the reception from the ovens.
“Walking 25 meters was a sign for coffee. We entered into an albergue, and the host served us two big cup of coffee. He did not charged us. It was a “donativo” (free will). Donativos are the heart of El Camino, but others have made it a business.
“Entering to Castilla y León region we visited the Village of Viloria de la Rioja, the birth place of St. Dominic. I was shocked by the simplicity of the village, and the abandonment of St. Dominic’s home. It was in ruins. I said: OMG, what the Dominican Order of Preachers (OP) Priests have done! They have forgotten their founder roots. It was not Assisi for St. Francis or Norcia for St. Benedict. Some one had put a powerful sign over the ruins reclaiming action. We have OP at St. Louis Bertrand in Louisville.
“I need to confess that I took a little rock from the ground. I don’t know why, but I was touched.
“It was time to hit to Belorado, a small village with 2,000 people. Pedro had heard that there was a shelter with a pool. We find it and stayed there. I just socked my feet in the pool. The shelter was well run. They had an amazing restaurant too. We did not ate there, but we went to the grocery store and bought some cuts, bread, peaches, crab legs, nuts, and cheese. We ate in a bench on the main plaza. We invite every resident that passed by to eat with us, but no one accepted the invitation.
“Early after our arrival, Pedro and me walked the village and we met David Herrera. He was a beautiful man in his 80’s. Just like Segundo the other day. We invited him for a glass of wine, but he said that he does not drink. At the end, he invited us to the bar and paid for our wine, and he drank one too. We tasted there the best “morcillas de Burgos.’”
You can see select excerpts from Father Sanchez’s blog every week right here on WHAS11.com.
Sanchez’s full blog and additional photographs can be found at wherespadre.org.
